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Orphan Works Bill: Congress at Work
Posted by Robert Hunt at 11:20 pm on October 2nd

The Orphan Works bill in the House, widely reported to be "dead for this year" is being considered in the House right now. What kind of representatives are these that pass legislation when no one is looking? This bill redefines the copyright protections that are the foundation of our careers- and not in a good way:




 FROM THE ILLUSTRATORS' PARTNERSHIP



THE HOUSE ORPHAN WORKS BILL (H.R. 5889)

IS MOVING IN THE HOUSE NOW   



10.2.08 



Phone, fax, email these Congressman immediately



DELAHUNT  Phone (202) 225 3111     Fax (202) 225-5658

                      Phone: (617) 770-3700   Fax: (617) 770-2984



CONYERS   Phone: (202) 225-5126    Fax: (202) 225-0072

                     Phone: (313) 961-5670    Fax: (313) 226-2085



NADLER     Phone: (202) 225-5635     Fax: (202) 225-6923

                    Phone: (212) 367-7350     Fax: (212) 367-7356

 

BERMAN    Phone: (202) 225-4695     Fax: (202) 225-3196

                    Phone: (818) 994-7200     Fax: (818) 994-1050



EXPRESS YOUR OUTRAGE AT THE WAY THIS IS BEING DONE



We've been getting assurances all day that the bill was "dead for this year."



TELL THEM NOT TO PASS THIS ANTI-COPYRIGHT LAW



    * UNDER COVER OF NIGHT

    * UNDER COVER OF ECONOMIC CRISIS

    * UNDER COVER OF ANOTHER TELEVISED DEBATE



TELL THEM THIS IS AN OUTRAGEOUS WAY TO RE-WRITE THE  COPYRIGHT LAWS OF THE UNITED STATES



- Brad Holland and Cynthia Turner, for the Board of the Illustrators' Partnership



Please post or forward this message immediately to any interested party.

_______________________________________________________________



For news and information:

Illustrators' Partnership Orphan Works Blog: http://ipaorphanworks.blogspot.com/



Over 75 organizations oppose this bill, representing over half a million creators. Illustrators, photographers, fine artists, songwriters, musicians, and countless licensing firms all believe this bill will harm their small businesses.



U.S. Creators and the image-making public can email Congress through the Capwiz site: http://capwiz.com/illustratorspartnership/home/ 2 minutes is all it takes to tell the U.S. Congress to uphold copyright protection for the world's artists.



INTERNATIONAL ARTISTS please fax these 4 U.S. State Agencies and appeal to your home representatives for intervention. http://www.illustratorspartnership.org/01_topics/article.php?searchterm=00267



CALL CONGRESS: 1-800-828-0498.  Tell the U.S. Capitol Switchboard Operator "I would like to leave a message for Congressperson  __________ that I oppose the Orphan Works Act."  The switchboard operator will patch you through to the lawmaker's office and often take a message which also gets passed on to the lawmaker. Once you're put through tell your Representative the message again.



If you received our mail as a forwarded message, and wish to be added to our mailing list, email us at: illustratorspartnership@cnymail.com Place "Add Name" in the subject line, and provide your name and the email address you want used in the message area.



STOP THE U.S. ORPHAN WORKS ACT NOW.

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Comments (0)


How to Field-Dress a Moose
Posted by Robert Hunt at 4:20 pm on September 4th

On the hoof, but not for long
Vice Presidential nominee Sarah Palin was described Tuesday by Fred Thompson as "the only candidate in the race who knows how to field dress a moose".  What does this mean exactly? As a non-hunter, I looked into it- and as a public service, I thought it might be usefull to pass along what I learned, to provide insight into the character and experience of the nominee:
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"Your first priority is to cool down the carcass as quickly as possible.

Most available field dressing instructions or manuals are too vague for a first-time hunter. These detailed, basic instructions will guide you through the process of dressing and quartering your moose. These same instructions can be used for any game animal. A few comments at the end of the process description generalize the procedure with notes for smaller animals. Minimum tools are two sharp axes, and two sharp knives. A saw might be used should you have one, but is not necessary for field dressing.




First of all, think safety. Approach any downed animal with caution. There are several stories of excited hunters being too close when an animal though to be dead struggles to get up, injuring the hunter. Make your approach from the rear of the animal, ensuring it is dead. That done, TAG YOUR ANIMAL. In the excitment of the hunt, many forget this simple step. Legally, you must tag you animal immediately. Save yourself trouble and do this first.


Your first priority is to cool down the carcass as quickly as possible. Have your hunting pack available at all times during the hunt so that tools are readily at hand. Move the animal so that you have adequate working room, preferably in a slightly inclined orientation, head at the lower end.


Clear the working area for safety and convenience. Remember that a moose is large, running up to 1200 pounds or more for a bull. Take your time, do not become exhausted or overworked. Expect the process to take up to one hour for a novice. Experienced field dressers will still require at least a half hour to complete work. There is no need to rush. The time taken at this point in the hunt ensures your meat will be clean, and enjoyable. You will find the help of your hunting partners of real benefit.


Avoid using water in the process, which may contain soil or bacteria which could lead to spoiling you meat. A carcass cavity wiped of blood this way will seal the meat with a thin film of body fluids that dry quickly. Using water dilutes this fluid, and introduces unnecessary microbes and creates an environment for bacterial growth.


A Brief Step-By-Step Summary Of The Process:

   1. Clear Your Working Area
   2. Bleed The Animal
   3. Preparatory Skin Cuts, Throat to Anus
   4. Break the Breastbone
   5. Sever the Wind Pipe and Gullet from the Head
   6. Open the Abdomen to the Anus
   7. Split the Pelvic Bone
   8. Cut the Diaphragm from the Cavity Wall
   9. Free the Anus and Bladder
  10. Roll Out The Abdominal Organs with Anus Attached
  11. Remove the Neck and Chest Cavity Organs
  12. Clean the Body Cavity
  13. Prepare the Carcass for Cooling or Quartering

The Details of Field Dressing
Clear Your Working Area
Clean the immediate area around the animal so that you have room to move, and to roll out the entrails. Plan ahead, choosing the lowest ground around the animal for the entrails. Move the carcass if necessary. Also clear an area leading away from the carcass, in the direction you wish to move the animal away from the entrails for transportation or quartering. Place the animal on its back, spreading the rear legs using ropes or having your partners hold them apart. If you have several people, or additional rope, do the same with the front legs.

Bleed The Animal
A heart-lung shot usually provides adequate bleeding. However, to ensure bleeding, insert a sharp knife into the shallow cavity at the base of the throat and slice across the main blood vessels with a wide and deep, crosswise cut. This opens the jugular veins that run from the heart to the head. Since the animal is dead, blood flow is by gravity. Allow the blood to flow away from the animal, clearing the ground when necessary.

Preparatory Skin Cuts, Throat to Anus
Starting at the breastbone, just below the rib cage, use a sharp knife cutting the skin in a straight line to the neck and base of the jaw. Complete the process by cutting through the muscles to the bone of the ribcage and higher, exposing the windpipe and gullet.

Cut the skin from the base of the ribs downward over the middle of the belly, in a straight line, to the anus, taking care to cut around the genitals slightly. The genitals must be left on one hind quarter in Ontario, for sex identification. Once these cuts are done, prepare to eviscerate the animal.

Break the Breastbone
With the breastbone exposed, use two axes to cut through the breastbone. Use your sharpest axe as the cutting tool, the second as a hammer, driving the cutter from the base of the ribcage, up the middle of the breastbone, through the top ribs. As the cut enlarges, pull the front legs apart opening the chest cavity.

Sever the Wind Pipe and Gullet from the Head
With the chest cavity open, sever the windpipe and gullet as close to the head as possible, pulling it clear of the carcass, cutting where necessary. When free of the neck, lay in the chest cavity.

Open the Abdomen to the Anus
With the chest spread open, and the neck area clean, move to opening the abdomen. From the base of the ribcage, carefully cut through the abdominal muscles, exposing the stomach and intestines, without puncturing them. Have your partners spread the abdomen to open the area for easy work.

As you approach the pelvic area, take precautions to avoid cutting the bladder. Cut through the muscles to the pelvic bone, exposing it for the next procedure.

Split the Pelvic Bone
Starting at the top of the pelvis (closest to the abdomen), using the two axe method described above, split the pelvic bone, taking care to stay clear of the genitals. Avoid cutting the urinary tract, which could release urine, tainting the meat.

Cut the Diaphragm from the Cavity Wall
This procedure is one that requires patience and care. You must start at on side of the chest cavity near the base of the ribs cutting the diaphragm at the chest cavity wall. As you move deeper into the cavity, you may need help from a few hands to pull the organs to one side so that you have rooms to see and cut. Cut as far back along the cavity wall as is possible. Switch to the other side of the chest cavity, repeating the actions. Most likely, some of the diaphragm will remain attached. Leave the remainder for later.

Free the Anus and Bladder
The most important procedure is the separation of the anus from the carcass and the pelvic area. Extreme care must be taken not to cut the intestines and the urinary tract, which could taint the meat. At the opened pelvic bone, use a sharp knife to make cuts to free the large intestine and rectum from the pelvic area. Extra hands are helpful to pull the organs to one side or the other to clear the working area. Proceed until working in this area until the rectum meets the muscle tissue near the anus.

At the base of the tail, use a sharp knife to cut a circle the skin about one or two inches from the anus. Once completed, use the knife to cut through the muscle tissue to the inside of the pelvic bone, towards the top of the pelvic bone, to free the anus and rectum. At times, you may have to work both from the anus area and from the opening of the split pelvis to free the organs. Once free, pull and hold the anus, rectum and lower intestine free of the cavity

Roll Out The Abdominal Organs with Anus Attached
With the Anus and Rectum free and held clear, slightly roll the carcass to the lower ground, and allow the intestines and the stomach to fall to the prepared ground.

Remove the Neck and Chest Cavity Organs
Grasp the windpipe from the chest cavity, and pull the heart and lungs out toward the entrails on the ground. Cut the remaining tissue holding the diaphragm to the back of the chest wall freeing the organs from the carcass. Allow any blood to flow from the cavity. Roll the carcass to drain as much blood as possible.

Clean the Body Cavity
Now that the body cavity is clear of organs, use absorbent material to wipe it clean. This can be cloth rags you have prepared in your hunting pack, or clean grass, moss, or leaves at the site. Avoid using water in the process, which may contain soil or bacteria which could lead to spoiling you meat. A carcass cavity wiped of blood this way will seal the meat with a thin film of body fluids that dry quickly. Using water dilutes this fluid, and introduces unnecessary microbes and creates an environment for bacterial growth.

Prepare the Carcass for Cooling, Quartering, or Transport
Repeating the introductory note at the beginning, cooling the carcass is a first priority. Depending or the time available to you, and the weather conditions you may decide to move directly to transporting your animal whole, quartering, it for transport, or leaving it to cool some hours. Quartering and transport is covered later. Here, the focus is preparation for cooling, should you decide to leave the carcass for some hours.

The assumption is that the temperature is below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Should the temperature be higher, seriously consider transporting your meat to your camp or butchering facility for hanging and cooling immediately.

Depending on the size of the animal, cooling can present you with several problems. A large animal cools more slowly than a small animal, because the mass involved and the surface area of the animal. A rabbit cools in minutes, a moose, in hours.

Efficient cooling is a matter of air circulation, a transfer of heat from the surfaces of the carcass to the air, and away. Leaving the animal in a heap risks meat spoilage, in violation of most provincial and state game regulation. Attempt to provide as much air flow around and through the carcass as is humanly possible. The most effective strategy is hanging a quartered carcass, thereby increasing surface area and air circulation to a maximum.

The next best approach is hanging the entire animal. This may not be possible, depending on the help, materials and tools available at the field dressing site. Failing these first two methods, the next alternative is to provide free air circulation between the ground and the carcass, laying on its back, the body cavity open but protected from possible rain or snow.

Provide air circulation by placing the carcass (with a moose, rolling the carcass) on logs or some similar supporting material. Ensure free air circulation by providing several supports along the backbone area, so that the animal is indeed off the ground. Ensure it will not roll by tying off the legs to surrounding trees or other anchors. If direct sun, rain or snow is a high, probability protect the moose by placing a framework of spruce, balsam or pine boughs above the carcass, leaving at least six inches of free space for air travel.

At lower temperatures, if the next hours are not expected to be warmer and when snow is on the ground, it may not be necessary to lift the animal. Only after you have made provisions for cooling can you take some time to rest and celebrate in what can be called recreational celebration.

Additional Notes and Generalizations
A small field saw, such as the Browning Folding Saw might be used for splitting the pelvic bone and the breastbone.

For animals that are smaller than the moose, for example deer and bear, the breastbone and the pelvic bone might be able to be split with the knife alone. Any sharp quality hunting knife with a five to seven inch blade is adequate for moose, as well as smaller game.

Effective hunting axes are those with a sharp two and one-half pound head, with handles 24 to 26 inches in length.

Four 15 foot lengths of 3/8 inch ropes allow stabilizing and tying off the legs while field dressing or carrying quarters."

   
(from http://www.twin-lakes-air.com)


 


 


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Comments (13)


A Graduate Speaks
Posted by Robert Hunt at 12:16 pm on May 27th

illustration by Ashley Benham
My former student Ashley Benham, who graduated from CCA with a degree in illustration two weeks ago, wrote a letter regarding the Orphan Works bills before congress which was published in yesterday's New York Times. 
Go Ashley!


(text of the letter is as follows, as the letter is now only available to subscribers to the NY Times online):

Re “Little Orphan Artworks,” by Lawrence Lessig (Op-Ed, May 20):


Two weeks ago, I graduated from college with a degree in illustration — a profession I have dreamed of pursuing my entire life, and one that would be ruined by the orphan works bills. Instead of hiring an artist or a photographer to create a unique image, the orphan works bills would allow a client to simply farm the Internet or other sources to find, and effectively steal, artwork.


In this situation the artist is denied both the payment he deserves for his hard work, as well as the ability to keep practicing his vocation while sustaining a living.


These bills would destroy not only the careers of many talented artists, but also the quality of the arts in our culture.


When it is easier to steal and reuse old ideas and artworks to the point of obsolescence, who will encourage the search for beauty and innovation?


Ashley Benham
San Francisco, May 21, 2008



Do something yourself!
 
Comments (2)


TOAST?
Posted by Robert Hunt at 11:06 am on May 8th

Do something about it.
 
Comments (7)


WE ARE NOT NEUTRAL
Posted by Robert Hunt at 1:22 pm on May 7th
The future landscape in which illustrators work is being decided right now. As has been pointed out here, some organizations are strongly against the Orphan Works bill, some remain "neutral".
If the bill  is stopped,know this: it wasn't stopped because of those who remained neutral. Are you neutral? I am not.

Please consider what defacto decriminalization of copyright infringement will do- not just because of piracy of your work will become unenforceable, but because the value of original work to clients will be greatly reduced, because it will be worth less as property to them, and they will no longer have the motive to commission new work to indemnify themselves against infringement claims.

Write your congressman. Don't be neutral!
 
Comments (5)


Barbara Bradley 1927-2008
Posted by Robert Hunt at 8:10 pm on May 3rd

Painting by Barbara Bradley, 2008
Barbara Bradley, the beloved drawing teacher of generations of illustrators, passed away yesterday following a tragic automobile accident a day earlier. This terrible news comes on the one year anniversary of her being awarded the 2007 Distinguished Educator of the Arts award from the Society of Illustrators.

Today is an incomprehensibly sad day for the hundreds of former students she infused with a love of drawing over her fifty year teaching career, which she began after many  years working at the Cooper Studios in New York. Many of her students have gone on to become noted illustrators and teachers themselves.

Lief Peng posted a beautiful, eloquent tribute to Barbara here.

Barbara sent a jpeg of the above painting to me just a week ago. She said "I'm still not doing enough painting but find it fun to do a few little things, especially as Birthday or thank you cards.  Attached is what began as a rough but one I rather liked.  Began in watercolor and switched to guauche.     Daffodil Hill on a misty day in March.  I like the intended-to-crop-but-didn't-edges best"
 
Comments (11)


Save the Date
Posted by Robert Hunt at 1:59 pm on April 30th


 
Comments (8)


Brave New World: Orphan Works
Posted by Robert Hunt at 11:01 am on April 24th
Do you like being an illustrator? Do you aspire or dream to become an illustrator? If you have any interest in the future of our field, you should be aware that legislation is about to come back before Congress that contains proposals which seriously threaten the future viability of our profession. Everyone who creates intellectual property should be informed about this issue...
From the Illustrator's Partnership:
"Today the House and Senate sent us draft copies of the new Orphan Works Act of 2008. They haven’t officially released it yet, but we’ve been told the Senate will do so this week. A quick analysis confirms our worst fears and our early warnings. If these proposals are enacted into law, all the work you have ever done or will do could be orphaned and exposed to commercial infringement from the moment you create it.
  A Webcast interview with Brad Holland about this bill is now available at:
http://www.sellyourtvconceptnow.com/orphan.html.    The warnings in this interview have now been confirmed by the advance drafts of the bill. Learn what artists groups are doing and how you can help oppose this radical departure from traditional copyright law and business practice. "

More information about the bill can be found in the Orphan Works Resource Page for artists.
 
Comments (22)


Cleaning Brushes: How To, Or Not
Posted by Robert Hunt at 1:34 pm on April 19th

Ivory soap, Mineral oil, Flea comb, WD 40, and a pressure washer. Why not?
I once read that paint brushes are the artist's little friends, a friendship which must be reciprocal for one's brushes to perform up to par. I admit that I really don't keep up my end of this friendship very well. Although I ask for a lot from my little friends,  I tend to leave my used brushes sitting in jars and cans for months before I get around to cleaning them. Who has time? For those who only clean their brushes semi- annually, here are some tips on industrial grade artist's brush cleaning techniques. Disclaimer: It is much better to take care of your tools and wash your brushes every night. Don't try this at home kids!
 

some dirty brushes. I havent cleaned any brushes for months, Im beginning to run out....time to clean them.

 

brushes with dried paint are soaked in mineral oil. Surprisingly, letting paint dry in a brush helps it keep it's shape...

 

brush is washed with ivory bar soap until dried paint loosens.

 

I use a flea comb to get out the dried paint now. Then I wash it again with soap until most of the pigment is out...

 

Things get a little unorthodox here. I spray the brush with w-d 40 to loosen up any residual pigment.

 

...Then I blast each brush with a pressure washer! This gets out all traces of soap and paint. One must be careful doing this. And don't try it indoors, kids!

 

...after the better part of two days, I've brought hundreds of my little friends back to life, ready once again to get down to business. Again, it's better to clean them as you use them. Someday I'll try that.

 
Comments (14)


Down to Alphaville
Posted by Robert Hunt at 4:08 pm on April 3rd

Washington Square Suntan
A day in New York
 

Olive Tree Cafe

 

Grandmaster

 

6th Ave Basketball

 

World Trade Center site security guard

 
Comments (13)


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